Tartan Army in Malta

Day -885. WorldCup2018

It being Sunday evening and all that, I feel the need (as on previous Sundays) for a good humoured story. And the Tartan Army did indeed provide. It also gave me a very good excuse to include Malta in a post.

Malta play Scotland in the first Russia 2018 qualifying match for both countries on September 4th, 2016. You would think that it's long enough away that nobody is thinking about it yet, with half a football season yet to go and the Euros in the summer. But not the Tartan Army, Scotland's self-proclaimed best supporters in the world. Since last October the Tartan Army online forum has had hundreds of threads and messages from supporters planning their trip to Malta. But then again, there is not much else going on for them. If it was beginning of the season, or mid-season, everybody knows who the Scottish champions are going to be. The only question is to what extent are Celtic going to try to throw it away. Scottish football supporters also know that there will be no interest in the Champions League beyond September and for not much longer in the Europa League. Scottish fans will, once again, have to pick a team to support at this summer's Euros. The only excitement to look forward to is the hope that Rangers get promoted this year so that there is a real rivalry in Scottish football next season.

The posters on the Tartan Army forum seem very well organised with flights and hotels booked. They even have buses to the stadium from the hotels booked and filled. There are many questions, however, and I was very tempted to create an account and, posing as Scottish expat living Malta, help them out with some of their issues. That thought quickly disappeared when I realised that signing up for another account online would mean another username and password that I would probably forget by tomorrow. Therefore, seeing as I am always keen to help I am happy to answer as many questions here as possible and hopefully one Scottish fan will read it and pass on the info.

Here's a few I picked.

"Has the stadium been picked yet?"
Hmm, let see. We have a choice between the National Stadium (Ta' Qali) that seats 17,000 or the other two stadiums that have one stand and might get a couple of thousand in them. A bit of interesting history about Ta' Qali: I was there for matches against Spain and Germany in the 1980s where there were reportedly 34,000 spectators but I don't think anybody really knew what the capacity was. Also, be advised, Tartan Army, that the stadium was built with a running track seperating the stands from the pitch. When I say running track I should clarify that it is an oval dirt gap that was meant to be a running track but the MFA hasnt quite got round to it yet, 35 years later. So bring your extra loud voices. No problem there, I'm sure.

 "We arrive match day at 4pm so plenty of time to make the bus and have a beer"
Not a question I know, but a comment from somebody booking a seat on one of the buses. To him I say: careful there, my friend. You don't know traffic in Malta. Airport to Sliema/St. Julian's, where most seem to be staying, should take about 15 minutes. In reality it could take 45 minutes. Sliema/St. Julian's to Ta' Qali could be another 45 minutes, when on a map it looks like it would be 15. Again, speaking from personal history, I was at Ta 'Qali in 1989 when the Republic of Ireland played their final match before qualifying for Italia '90. Irish supporters were coming in at half-time, straight from the airport. I wonder how much time they allowed, and that was before traffic existed. Anyway, you may miss your beer.

"Pick up time about 18.30 approx."
Yes, I know, not a question. Kick-off is 19.45. That will get you there at about 19.15 if everbody gets on the bus quickly. And this is Malta. Love it or hate it, or be amused by it, 18.30 will probably not mean that the bus will be there at 18.30. Tell the bus company you want the bus there at 18.00. And if it's late and you call the driver, expect a lot of "don't worry, don't worry, I'll be there" followed by some Maltese swearing. And, as a little aside, most bus drivers will probably be very amused by a bus load of singing Scottish football supporters and will even sing along with you, but their buses are very precious to them. Spilt beer and don't be surprised if you're kicked off.

"Will the bus have leather seats?"
 Ok, I don't even know if this is a serious question (Scottish humour and all) but if it is., where do you think you're going? This is a football match, in Malta, and according to your bus organiser you are paying 3 pounds...return!

"Do we get a pie?"
Again, I doubt the seriousness but do try the Maltese pie equivalent.....pastizzi, ricotta cheese or pea. They're a delicious pre-match/post-match snack.

"Can they comfortably cope with circa 150 thirsty Scotsmen and women and keep the drinks flowing with minimal waiting time to get served" (question about a bar in Sliema that a member wondered would be a good pick-up point)
Scotsman's pub in Paceville, Dubliner down the road and Ryan's up the hill would all be very welcoming. Dubliner's and Ryans' would have a conveniet bus stopping area.

"Anyone staying here? Nightlife seems arite" (asking about Popeye village)
I cannot even imagine where this chap is looking at staying, unless he's thinking of squatting in Popeye Village. This is about as middle of nowehere as you can get in Malta. There is nothing, NOTHING! Nightlife, arrite? Sure, if you like wind blowing through a run-down old film set.  Do not believe whatever website you are reading. Please do not stay here, please.

"Where is the best place to stay?"
St. Julian's/Paceville, best nightlife. Right on the sea. It's where most of the Maltese people go out and can get a bit out of hand, especially with a few hundred Scottish visitors in the mix. Some idiotic Maltese people like marking their territory and letting you know you are in their country. Sliema is also very close and a bit more sedate.
Alternative is Bugibba/Qawra. Again, it's right on the water. There are a lot of cheaper hotels here, popular with the British tourists. That also means lots of pubs. The downside is that it's a little further from the stadium.
Somebody mentioned they are staying in Valletta. It's interesting but pretty boring at night.

"With there stadium holding 17k, surely we'll get a fairly large allocation? Enough for 1pointers I hop"
"We will get as many tickets as we need. Malta have a very small home support and we wont take a huge amount so no need to worry."
Small home support is noramlly true when we play Slovakia, Lithuania or even France. But we love watching the British teams. Part of the fun for the locals will be the Scottish support. That match against the Republic in 1989 was a sell out, partly becasue we got to see some players that played for teams in England with lots of supporters in Malta. But the bigger reason was because we knew the Irish were coming to party and our stadium had never seen anything like that. It may not sell out as quickly as the England match but it will be the second best crowd puller.

"Sicily?"
Seriously?
"It's only a 2 hour ferry ride away and flights are much cheaper. Plus I fancy Sicily a bit more tha Malta. Anyone done this route before?"
Not quite sure what you fancy more about Sicily. A bumpy 2 hour ferry ride, followed by a bumpy half hour bus ride to the stadium and all that after the match?
"Palermo is wonderful."
Look at a map. Palermo is on the North Western tip of Sicily. The two hour ferry ride leaves from Pozzallo, on the South Eastern tip. That's a 4 hour drive through Sicily.

I may keep this up if there are more questions.  Or I may be told to shut up. In which case I may carry on anyway. All questions will be answered.